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If you are growing in a soilless mix then use with every watering,

@@Just4Growers Thanks

So it's for about 5 minutes one to up to 10 times a day, correct?

Appreciate that my Crispy friend.

I totally feel that. Once you get that penny drop moment of plants being subject to their environment and the ‘moisture sucking’ effect of the air (or not!) then you can be far more proactive (and responsive) as a grower.

One of my favourite winter crops for sure :)

Does VPD matter at night (or lights out)? : Yes, Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) still matters at night, but its importance shifts. During the day, VPD primarily affects transpiration rates and, consequently, photosynthesis and plant growth. At night, plants do not photosynthesize, but they still respire and transpire, albeit at reduced rates. Proper VPD management at night helps avoid issues like mold, mildew, and other pathogens, which thrive in conditions of high humidity and low airflow. If it's needed for transpiration that encourages photosynthesis, then does it really matter when there's no light? : Even without light, transpiration continues, though at a lower rate. The stomata (pores on the leaves) do not fully close at night, so some water vapor is still lost through transpiration. Maintaining an appropriate VPD at night ensures that plants do not become too stressed and helps maintain overall plant health by preventing excessively high humidity that could promote fungal growth. I'm thinking you'd want fairly the same at lights on as lights off, but when the lights are off, that VPD drops. So I'm thinking ease up on the RH when lights are out. Am I correct? : You are partially correct. While the target VPD may not need to be identical during the day and night, maintaining a balanced VPD at night is still crucial. When the lights go off, the temperature drops, and if the relative humidity (RH) remains high, VPD can drop too low, potentially creating an environment conducive to mold and mildew. To avoid this, it’s advisable to slightly reduce RH at night to maintain an appropriate VPD level. Practical Considerations at night: Monitor Night Conditions: Use sensors to continuously monitor temperature and humidity at night to maintain appropriate VPD levels. Adjust Humidity Control Systems: If your system controls RH, ensure it can adjust for nighttime conditions by lowering humidity slightly when the lights are off. Airflow and Ventilation: Ensure good airflow and ventilation to prevent excessive humidity build-up, which can lower VPD too much.

@@Just4Growers Thank you for the detailed reply. Got it! You're the best.

@@Just4Growers And yes. My control, at the current stage, the VDP is set at 1.12. but I've noticed it fluctuates between .93 to 1.12 with an average temp of 77. So I think I'm right on target. They look super happy so I'm thinking it's working. And the air exchange is moving perfectly! Inline fan blowing it out, with passive intake from the bottom. Two fans low and one on the light itself and in oscillating fan between the lights and the tops of the plants. It's heaven! 😂

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You’re welcome!

Perlite helps to improve drainage and increase the air filled porosity of the medium.

Can’t be too careful.

Appreciated!

Good for propagating in high summer.

@@Just4Growersis that a good thing??

Hello amigo. Thanks for checking in. All good here. Loving the life I live and living the life I love. Sending best wishes to you my diligent hunting friend.

That's awesome to hear! Sounds like a collie budz song 😊

Hit me up on Insta some time for a chat!

Aaaaaand ….. basil.

Getting old! lol. Or need to change my brand of coffee.

@@Just4Growers words from the grand master, I feel honoured and blessed. We all slow down a bit the older we get, pesky time waiting for no man.

Feedback like yours is like a change of reservoir for my mind. (Or, at the very least, a top-up.) Thank you!

Glad you noticed :)

Just a rule for of thumb I developed as a starting point for setting up the dosers.

Thanks for your comment, Ben. You raise an interesting point or two. Firstly, liquid concentrate hydroponic nutrients are generally acidic so it’s always a good idea to check the pH of your nutrient solution immediately after mixing, 10-30 mins later, and periodically. Most guides follow this method, and just add the proviso of diluting your pH adjuster liquids down to mitigate the risk of precipitation/ but - as I say in pH 103 - if you know ahead of time how much pH adjuster you use when mixing up a batch of nutrients, and your water source is consistent, then it’s arguably smarter to add your pH adjuster first to the water, mix in thoroughly, then add your base nutrients. In all cases, our goal is to achieve and maintain maximum solubility - but also remember that liquid hydroponic nutrient concentrates are already, by definition, dissolved.

watts wrong with that?

The unit isn’t designed for outdoor use. I protected all the weather sensitive components.

Makes me sound medicated.

Firstly, this is a really interesting and insightful comment so thank you for taking the time to share. I love CMH and DE-CMH and enjoy great results from them. (I still use CMH, DE-CMH in winter.) Nothing beats my 315W 4K CMH (incidentally, with a CRI of 95 !) for vegging up robust and vigorous plants, especially during the cooler months. However, The Color Rendering Index (CRI), is a tad anthropocentric for true plant talk. While being an important metric for assessing how accurately a light source displays the colors of various objects in comparison to a natural light source like sunlight, its relevance in the context of horticultural lighting is relatively low compared to other metrics that are more critical to plant growth (but I appreciate the general heuristic of sunlight being the gold standard for our noble indoor endeavors.) By the way, Nichia make extremely high CRI diodes (their ‘Optisolis’ range scores close to 98) but they’re more likely used in high-end designer clothing retail outlets rather than indoor horticulture. The minimum distance between a DE-CMH lamp and canopy is determined by lamp output and reflector design while environmental factors can round these figures up and down. A double-parabolic like Adjustawings can’t be beaten for close proximity placement. I would be very interested to know the L90 of the Fifth generation of OSLON® Square Hyper Red LEDs by OSRAM. They quote a Q90 of 100,000+ hours but not the same thing. Once again, worth noting the L in L90 stands for lumens, another anthropocentric metric, but what can you do? :) Big indoor light loving heavy fruiting plants? DE-CMH + DE-HPS for the win. Unless you like lollipopping. lol indeed. Enough of my rambling, thanks again for refreshing the lighting conversation!